|Step 1Remove heater hinged lower panel|
|Step 2Remove screw on the right securing the outer heater case.|
|Step 3Remove screw on the left securing the outer heater case.|
|Step 4Remove screw on the right holding the gas valve cover.|
|Step 5Remove screw on the left holding the gas valve cover.|
|Step 6Remove screw securing cable tie to the outer heater case.|
|Step 7Move bottom of the outer heater case away from the heater.|
|Step 8Move the heater outer case away from the wall.|
|Step 9Lift the heater outer case upwards a little to disengage the top holding brackets (shown here in detail after the outer case was removed.|
|Step 10Move the heater outer case sideways carefully a short distance from the heater because it is still connected by wires to the heater.|
|Step 11Disconnect the green/yellow earth cable blade connector.|
|Step 12Lift the right side of black gas valve cover over the white control block with rotary dial.|
|Step 13Lift the left side of black gas valve cover over the fan lever (careful manipulation of the cover is required not to damage the fan lever).|
|Step 14Allow the gas cover valve hang loose by its weight taking care not to stress excessively the red cable to the pilot flame igniter.|
|Step 15Disconnect two electrical plugs to free the hearer outer case from the heater.|
|Step 16When the outer heater cover is removed, the thermostat and overtemp cutout are accessible on top of the hearer. (It may be an opportunity to clean dust from the top of the heater and these two electrical components)|
|Step 17Remove two screws holding the metal heat shield over the clock box.|
|Step 18The clock box is now visible.|
|Step 19Remove two electrical plugs from the clock box and push the box out of front of the heater outer case. (In the process the box must be tilted slightly to clear the two electrical sockets)|
|Step 20The clock box can be lifted to reveal two clock circuit boards.
This step is unfortunately not well illustrated. Inside the clock box there are two circuit boards mounted one above the other. The smaller circuit board is placed over the larger board and held in position by four soldered pins on the outer side and two pins in the middle the larger board.
Two pins shown in the blue circle must be desoldered from the surface of the smaller board before the smaller board can be lifted by bending the four pins on its opposite side in order to get access to the electrical components on its underside.
|Step 24Three capacitors that require replacing are shown in the blue circle.|
|Step 25When the whole clock with its smaller board is turned upside down, the three capacitors become accessible.|
|Step 26Capacitors are clearly labelled in this picture.
When replacing them, take care to maintain correct polarity. Small + signs are shown on the board next to each capacitor.
|Specifications of capacitors
part numbers and prices shown as available from company Element 14 (formerly Farnell, phone +61 2 9644 7722,
|Capacitor 1: 470 UF/16V, part No.:8126321, cost: $1.58
Capacitor 2: 1000 UF/16V, part No.:1144692, cost: $2.56
Capacitor 3: 10 UF/50V, part No.: 8126992, Cost: $1.89
|Step 28Assembly of the clock box is reverse of the disassembly.Before replacing the clock box metal heat shield, a heat insulation material (e.g. a strip of car exhaust asbestos tape) can be glued to the other side of the clock box to protect it from long term effects of the heat generated by the heater.|
|Vulcan heater wiring diagram
(also shown under the metal cover of the fan switch)
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