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Jewellery Making Techniques Used
Viking knit Technique
There are small variations in techniques between wire knitters as each person develops their own style to weave Viking knit chains. I hand knit (or weave) the wire around a mandrel ¹, in a technique of making loops by threading the wire behind loops from the previous row to form a ribbed cord. A similar cord can be knitted with the thinner gauge wires using a spool or "Wyr Knitter"™ . The cord can then be drawn down through successively smaller holes in a drawplate ² to until it becomes an almost knitted fabric like cord chain. The chains are usually then finished with end caps or cones with a wire loop for the clasp to be attached.
Chain Maille Technique
My chain maille pieces are made by first hand winding the wire on a mandrel of the required size & cutting the rings using a jewellers saw, then making into the planned weave by interlocking jumprings into each other. The rings are closed with pliers, but not soldered, as the combined strength of the interlocked rings can withstand most day to day use. If the piece catches on something and comes apart, it can usually be easily repaired, although some rings may need to be reformed into circles or replaced if they have been pulled out of shape.
Antiquing
Some pieces have been "antiqued" by a method using eggs to deliberately tarnish the piece, then polishing back the raised surfaces to a normal shine, leaving the recessed areas with the dark tarnish, enhancing the raised, polished areas.
Cuttlefish Casting
This is done by cutting a piece of cuttlefish in half (lengthways) and carving directly into the cuttlefish. A sprue funnel is then carved from the mold to the outside, and both halves realigned and tied with wire or taped together. Silver (either sterling or fine) is then melted and poured into the mold through the sprue funnel. The mold is then opened, the sprue cut off, and the cast piece is cooled, cleaned and polished. Cuttlefish molds can usually only be used once.
Salt Casting
This is done by melting silver (either sterling or fine) and pouring over rock salt crystals, giving unusual shapes and effects. The casting is then cooled and the salt crystals removed or dissolved, then cleaned and polished. I then embellish the pieces by wiring Swarovski crystals and pearls, freshwater pearls or glueing Swarovski chatons into recessed areas.
Water Casting
This is done by melting silver (either sterling or fine) and pouring into a bucket of water, giving unusual shapes including hollow bubble like shapes when the silver cools suddenly as it sinks through the water. The casting is then polished. I then sort through the pieces for shapes and sizes that are suitable to use for beadcaps, or to enhance pearls.
¹ Mandrels can be any round or almost round objects, including allen keys (for knitting thinner gauge wires), knitting needles and cardboard tubes.
² Homemade drawplates can easily be made using a piece of hardwood (eg jarrah) and drilling holes varying in size from the largest knitted cord you expect to make, down to the smallest you expect to draw down to. Using a countersink drillbit to enlarge and taper the start of each sized hole will make starting to draw the chain through much easier.